Thursday, February 23, 2006

Rikshaw Tetris and A New Career Dawns?


Morning of Day 2 on the Indian subcontinent repeated much of Day 1, minus the close shave by straight edge. Bharat arranged for me to take his driver for the day after he headed off to work. So the driver and I headed out on a journey of unknown destination, unknown duration and no communication, zippo, zilch, none. I was excited to see what lay beyond the walls of the bungalow I called home in the heart of Mumbai.

With my enthusiasm running high, it did not matter that there was dead silence in the car (language barrier). We pushed forward toward the “Gateway to India” erected by the British to mark where they arrived in India circa 1911. I guess Thanksgiving with the other “Indians” was already taken so they decided to erect a monument instead. The monument itself was unimpressive and given our 2 hour journey to travel only half the city, it was a disappointment save the opportunity to get out stretch my legs and test my resolve to say "no" to the touts asking if I wanted to buy stuff I would not have taken if it were free.

What was most amazing about this day was not the destination, but rather the journey. Driving through Mumbai was completely insane. Between the autos, the massive multi-colored Tonka looking trucks and the bizzillion rickshaws (equivalent to a lawn mower/moped with a backseat) all creeping up on each other so that you literally could not fit your palm between the fenders, the scene resembled a human tetris game. It took hours and a lot of car jockeying to go less than 20 miles and I am told this is typical of getting around town. Fortunately a rikshaw ride for the many hours is probably a hundred rupees (equivalent to about 2 US dollars). Even more fortunate is that I was not in a rikshaw with no relief from the fumes, heat and noise from the two stroke engine.

There are tens of "almost" collisions every minute and, occasionally there are the "bump and push" collisions as well. In the first half hour, we managed to broadside a motorcyle carrying two passengers as we turned left from the lane of our choice down another street with no name, or at least no signage indicating the street had a name. No one was hurt, a few Hindi words were exchanged, and both parties just recovered and kept driving. I had been prepared for World War III. Had the same incident happened in the U.S., one of the following would have happened:

1. The parties would have gone to blows (physical altercation).
2. The police would have been called to file a report.
3. Both parties would call their lawyers and sue each other for a million dollars for emotional distress, gone to a chiropractor for 4 months and taken a week off of work.

Not so in India. Despite the tremendous overpopulation, poverty and frustration of traffic all day everyday, the Indians maintain calmness in the face of adversity. Throughout the rest of the day, there was yet another motorcycle "bump" and many side mirror introductions, which brings me to my new career plan. After kissing many side mirrors (mostly my side) on our travels, I began to inspect the mirrors of cars in India (lots of extra time in traffic). Upon examination, it's clear a niche market is about to be born . . . side mirror touch up service. Yes, that may be why I felt compelled to travel to this enchanting land. Over a billion people with a red hot economy, purchasing more cars than ever, and with more disposable income than anytime before. Now I didn't major in business, but the law of supply and demand seems to scream on this idea, so please don't tell anyone. It will be our secret. ;)

Another take away from my local jaunt was the impact that technology is having on India. Contrast more striking than ever can be seen between the massive anonymous campuses hiding the operators handling customer service for American and British companies and the manpowered carts drawn in the streets by a single grape vendor. As technology blossoms in abundance, so the gap widens between the middle class and poor. Perhaps the grape vendor has little to worry about (unless someone starts selling grapes on e-bay), but the sole proprietors manning their shop 7 days a week are in jeopardy. Big corporate America is here and not without impact. Malls dot the city with Subway, Ruby Tuesday, Pizza Hut and many of the top fashion stores. "Coming Soon" signs are everywhere and one gets the sense that there is a lot more coming than just those stores.

India may be exporting its engineers and doctors, but America is exporting its culture. Whether it is wearing blue jeans in 95 degree heat with intense humidity, the sound of American music emanating from the malls, cars and home stereos, or the fanfare of American movie stars, India, like many countries, is quickly adopting many American cultural elements. What is it about American culture? In speaking with the Simran, the daugther of the family with whom I am staying, she said that her friends who live in America change once they are in the U.S. for some time. In her view, they become more selfish and less respectful of their parents and Indian rituals. Maybe it is that a core trait for Americans is the idea of independence from government and as individuals? And exposure to this way of thinking inspires new ideas or ways of being (good or bad) for those immigrating to the U.S.? But India is the world's most populous democracy so why would living in the U.S. change a person? Perhaps the American character just has an added infectious element that captures or speaks to the spirit of all non-
Americans fortunate enough to experience Americana? I don't provide the answers, I just ask the questions. For answers you have to go to the following website, www.toddstripfund.com.

Peace and love from Mumbai.